Aside from its famous beer, Germany produces some fine red and white wines. Silvaner, spelled Sylvaner in German, is a white grape that produces an acidic, neutral wine. Because it can be unremarkable, winemakers frequently blend it with Riesling for balance. However, Silvaner holds its own as a light, dry, floral table wine if grown and fashioned properly.
Silvaner’s Austrian Origins
Silvaner originated in Austria and was once the dominant grape grown in Germany. Although that distinction now belongs to the Muller-Thurgau grape, Silvaner is now most common in the Franconian region of Germany and the Alsace region of France. Interestingly, Silvaner was long thought to be a parent of the Muller-Thurgau variety, but this has been proven false in recent years by DNA testing.
Franconian Terroir is Best
The greenish, mid-sized Silvaner grape grows in small clusters. It ripens in early October and has a high yield. Because it can be bland if not grown in ideal locations, the best Silvaner varietals come from the Franconian region of Germany.
Blending with Riesling
If Silvaner is grown on limestone terroir, it can be very bland. For this reason, Silvaner produced in substandard regions is blended with Riesling and Bacchus to provide some acidity since it does not contribute much flavor.
Pair with White Asparagus, or Spargel
After locating a good Silvaner, pair it with an appropriate dish. The food must be light so as not to overpower the wine. An excellent pairing is the German spring specialty white asparagus, or Spargel. Silvaner’s flavors also do justice to baked or broiled chicken and white fishes. Soft cheeses such as fresh mozzarella or goat cheese also benefit from Silvaner’s floral qualities.
On the other hand, Silvaner’s fairly high acidity tends to cleanse the palate. Therefore, pairings with heavier foods are also possible. For example, the fat of German bratwurst or the spice of a pizza can be nicely balanced by Silvaner’s earthy tones and apple nuances
USA Domestic Silvaner
In the United States, California vineyards have experimented with growing the Silvaner grape. The resulting wines have been known variously as Sylvaner Riesling, Franken Riesling, Monterey Riesling, and Sonoma Riesling. Owing to the lukewarm reception of the grape and the wine, acreage of the grape has diminished in the USA over the years. The best Silvaner still comes from Franconia.
How to Choose
Shop around for Silvaner and find some from Germany or Alsace. German Silvaners may come in the traditional, teardrop-shaped bocks bottle. The label for Franconian Silvaners will have terms such as Franken Grüner Silvaner or Franken Silvaner Kabinett Trocken. Silvaners from Alsace will have the phrase Sylvaner Appellation Alsace Controlée. If one Silvaner is unacceptable, keep trying until you find one to your liking. They are not expensive wines and are worth the effort to locate a good one.
References:
Barron’s Wine Lover’s Companion
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