Germany is well known for its beer, of course. But if it is known at all for its wines, it is for white wines like Riesling and Bacchus. Most white grapes grown in Germany, however, are Müller-Thurgau, a much-maligned grape that needs a little understanding and a cooler climate to produce pleasant, light, fruity whites.
Largest Grape Crop in Germany
The most vineyard acreage in Germany is planted in Müller-Thurgau. This grape has been used in varietal wines and also in many popular blends. In fact, in the 1970’s and 80’s it was blended with other grapes and even grape juice in Germany to make an alcoholic beverage highly palatable to the masses. The low quality of most of these blends accounts for the reason that Müller-Thurgau does not have such a good reputation today.
History of the Müller-Thurgau Grape
Dr. Hermann Müller, a viticulturist from the Swiss state of Thurgau working in Germany, developed Müller-Thurgau as a hybrid in 1882. It was widely accepted that the parents of this hybrid were Riesling and Silvaner. DNA testing of the vine in 1994 confirmed that one of the parent vines was Riesling. However, the other parent was not Silvaner, and there is some debate as to the real second parent. Whatever its lineage, suffice it to say that the flavor qualities of Riesling that Dr. Müller hoped to bring forward failed to materialize in the new vine.
Müller-Thurgau Wine Varies with the Climate
Müller-Thurgau thrives in most climates, ripens early and has a high yield. Because of this, it has been planted extensively. In fact, it accounts for the most vineyard acreage in Germany. However, just because the vine thrives in a certain area doesn’t mean the fruit makes good wine.
Müller-Thurgau Varietal
Varietal wine made exclusively with Müller-Thurgau is very light and fruity. The grape has very low acid, which many critics claim makes a weak, flabby wine. This may be so for some vintages. However, if the grapes are grown in a cooler climate, the flavor factors of the fruit are more in balance, resulting in a better quality wine.
Müller-Thurgau in Oregon, Washington and Canada
Several small wineries in the Pacific Northwest are using a combination of Müller-Thurgau’s hardiness and the cooler grape-growing climes to produce highly drinkable version of Müller-Thurgau. Vineyards in western Canada, Washington state’s Puget Sound area and parts of Oregon are producing some very nice varietals. It is worth checking your local wine superstore or boutique for Müller-Thurgau wines from this region.
Food Pairings with Müller-Thurgau
Varietal wine made exclusively with Müller-Thurgau is very light and fruity. Drink Müller-Thurgau young – within one or two years of bottling. It is good with spicy food such as gumbo, and it makes a pleasant warm-weather beverage because of its lightness.
References
Karren Tolliver - Karren Doll Tolliver is from the Midwest USA and received a BA in English from Mississippi University for Women in 1984. Writing since she ...
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